Ring of Kerry

September 23, 2024

The Ring of Kerry, Ireland, a 179-kilometer circular route in southwest Ireland, is often hailed as one of the world's most beautiful drives. As you embark on this journey, you'll be treated to a tapestry of lush landscapes, rugged coastlines, and charming villages that epitomize the beauty of the Emerald Isle. Day trip around this iconic route, exploring its highlights and hidden gems. Setting Off:

Killarney to Kenmare

Our journey begins in the bustling town of Killarney, known for its vibrant atmosphere and proximity to Killarney National Park. As we leave the city behind, the road winds through the park, offering glimpses of the majestic McGillycuddy's Reeks mountain range and the serene Lakes of Killarney.

The first leg of our journey takes us through Moll's Gap, a mountain pass that provides panoramic views of the Black Valley. It's worth stopping at the viewing point here to soak in the landscape's rugged beauty. As we descend towards Kenmare, the road hugs the mountainside, offering thrilling hairpin bends and sweeping vistas. Kenmare, our first significant stop, is a picturesque town known for its colorful buildings and excellent restaurants. It's an ideal place for a mid-morning coffee and a taste of local cuisine. The town's traditional Irish charm is evident in its craft shops and friendly locals.

Coastal Beauty: Kenmare to Waterville

Leaving Kenmare, we follow the coastline towards Sneem. This stretch of road offers stunning views of Kenmare Bay and the Beara Peninsula across the water. The landscape becomes increasingly dramatic as we approach Caherdaniel, winding the road along cliff edges and through lush green fields. Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O'Connell (known as "The Liberator" in Irish history), is a worthwhile detour. The house and its beautiful gardens offer a glimpse into 19th-century Irish life, and the surrounding Derrynane Beach is a hidden gem with its pristine white sand and turquoise waters.

As we continue towards Waterville, the scenery becomes increasingly coastal. Waterville, a charming seaside village, was Charlie Chaplin's favorite holiday spot. A statue of the famous actor greets visitors in the town center. It's an excellent spot for lunch, with several restaurants offering fresh seafood with views of the Atlantic.

The Skellig Ring: A Detour Worth Taking

While not officially part of the Ring of Kerry, the Skellig Ring is a detour that shouldn't be missed. This 18-kilometer loop takes you off the beaten path to some of Kerry's most spectacular scenery. The highlight of this detour is undoubtedly the Kerry Cliffs near Portmagee. These towering cliffs, rising 300 meters above the Atlantic, offer breathtaking views of the Skellig Islands. On a clear day, you can see the ancient monastic settlement on Skellig Michael, famously featured in recent Star Wars films. The cliffs here are less crowded than the famous Cliffs of Moher, offering a more intimate and wild experience. The rugged beauty of the coastline, with its jagged rocks and crashing waves, is truly awe-inspiring. It's worth spending some time here, walking along the cliff-top paths and taking in the raw power of the Atlantic.

In Portmagee, you can learn about the history of the Skellig Islands and even book boat trips to visit them (weather permitting). The colorful village is also a great place to experience traditional Irish music in one of its lively pubs.

Returning to the Ring: Cahersiveen to Killorglin

Rejoining the central Ring of Kerry route at Cahersiveen, we continue our journey northeast. This stretch of road offers a mix of coastal and mountain scenery. The Cahergall Stone Fort, just outside Cahersiveen, is worth a quick stop. This well-preserved ring fort dates back to the 9th century and offers insight into ancient Irish defensive structures. As we approach Glenbeigh, the landscape becomes more pastoral, with rolling hills and sheep-dotted fields. The long, golden stretch of Rossbeigh Beach comes into view, offering a perfect spot for a late afternoon walk. Killorglin, our next central town, is famous for its annual Puck Fair, one of Ireland's oldest festivals. Even if you're not visiting during the fair, the town's riverside location and traditional pubs make it a pleasant stop.

The Final Stretch: Mountain Views and Killarney National Park

The last leg of our journey takes us through more mountainous terrain. The road climbs into the hills, offering panoramic views back towards Dingle Bay and the Atlantic. As we near Killarney, we enter the National Park once again. Ladies View, named after Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting who admired the view during a royal visit in 1861, offers a stunning vista over the Lakes of Killarney. It's the perfect spot for a final photo opportunity before completing our circuit. Muckross House, a 19th-century mansion set against the backdrop of Muckross Lake, is worth a visit if time allows. The house and its beautifully manicured gardens provide a glimpse into the grandeur of 19th-century Irish aristocratic life.

Completing the Circle: Return to Killarney

As the day draws to a close, we return to Killarney, completing our circuit of the Ring of Kerry. The town's lively pubs and restaurants offer the perfect setting to reflect on the day's adventures over a pint of Guinness or a hearty Irish meal.

Tips for Driving the Ring of Kerry

Directions: The ring should be driven counterclockwise. This puts you in the inside lane, closer to the views, and makes it easier to pull over at scenic spots.

Timing: Start early to avoid tour buses, which typically begin their journeys from Killarney around 10 am.
Weather: Irish weather can be unpredictable. Bring layers and be prepared for sudden changes.
Narrow Roads: Some sections of the ring have narrow, winding roads. You should drive carefully and be prepared to pull over to let larger vehicles pass.

Fuel: Fill up your tank before setting off. While petrol stations are along the route, they can be far apart in some sections.

Time Management: While driving the Ring of Kerry in a day is possible, take your time. Allow time for stops and detours.

Off-Season Travel: Consider visiting in the shoulder season (April-May or September-October) for fewer crowds and still-pleasant weather.

Conclusion: A Journey to Remember

Driving the Ring of Kerry is more than just a scenic route; it's a journey through the heart of Ireland's natural beauty and rich culture. From the rugged cliffs and pristine beaches to the charming villages and historic sites, every turn of the road offers something new to discover. The addition of the Skellig Ring detour, with its magnificent Kerry Cliffs, adds an extra layer of wild beauty to the journey. These less-visited cliffs offer a raw, untamed perspective of Ireland's coastline that perfectly complements the gentle beauty of the ring. Whether you're a nature enthusiast, a history buff, or someone searching for breathtaking landscapes, the Ring of Kerry delivers in spades.

It's a drive that captures the essence of Ireland – its stunning natural beauty, its rich history, and the warm hospitality of its people. As you complete the circuit and return to Killarney, you'll already plan your next visit. The Ring of Kerry is not just a drive – it's an experience that stays with you long after you've returned home, calling you back to the wild beauty of Ireland's southwest coast. So, pack your camera, bring your sense of adventure, and prepare for a journey that will take your breath away at every turn. The Ring of Kerry awaits, promising memories that will last a lifetime.

Stunning view of towering cliffs at Portmagee, Kerry, Ireland, with lush green grasses in the foreground and the deep blue Atlantic Ocean stretching to the hori
Kerry Cliffs

Experience the breathtaking Majestic Cliffs of Portmagee in Kerry, Ireland, where land meets sea—a must-see on the scenic Ring of Kerry. Photo © copyright by Greg Ghia.